Auto to manual transmission swap info for a 200sx se-r : Home

Auto to manual transmission swap info for a 200sx se-r
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Here is a list of the parts needed for the swap. It is complete to the best of my knowledge; however it’s possible that I left something off. If some part is missing that you know is needed, send me an email and I will add it.

tranny, (Make sure it has the yoke- to connect to the shift control rod. There is also a dust boot that goes there.)
flywheel,
flywheel bolts(depends on year of flywheel),
clutch kit(pressure plate, disk, throwout bearing, pilot bearing),
pressure plate to flywheel bolts,
driver and passenger axles,
shifter (in car),
shift control rod(with pivot to connect to yoke on one end),
shift support rod(bar with a pivoting bracket to connect to rear mount bracket on one end),
shifter return spring,
holder bracket(holds shift support rod to underside of car),
crossmember,
front mount,
front mount bracket,
front mount/bracket bolts,
tranny mount,
tranny mount bracket, tranny mount bolts,
rear mount bracket,
clutch pedal,
two (actually, three, but the third is not vital) clutch cable brackets(on firewall and on tranny),

brake pedal,
Clutch lever and assembly(withdrawal lever, return spring, bearing retainers, spring pin, release fork-the FSM shows all that’s needed here),
ECU (if you care about the CEL),
outer shift boot,
inner shift boot,
driver’s and passenger’s side axle seals

I don’t have any pictures, but here are some notes on the various swap parts. If you have any questions or corrections, email me at holt.wes@gmail.com or pm me on www.sr20forum.com as "wes 98200sx ser"

Clutch Pedal – You’ll need a good drill, a large bit for the bolt holes, and a hole saw for the cable hole. Look at the pedal bolts and firewall cable bracket for the sizes of the drill bit and hole saw. My 1998 had the top pedal hole already drilled and threaded. It also had a hole in the rubber floor mat for the other two holes. I lined the pedal up with the top hole and marked where the two bolts hit the firewall. I had to move the cruise control module out of the way in the engine compartment so I could get the firewall cable bracket. Two of the CC bolts must be removed from the fender well.

Brake pedal – You can either be safe and remove the brake booster, or have someone pull it out away from the firewall while you pull out the brake pedal. The booster has to be pulled out pretty far to get enough clearance to get the brake pedal out. I did it this way and did not break anything, but I can't guarantee this is a safe method. If you have cruise control make sure to get a brake pedal from a car with cruise control so it has the extra switch.

Starter relay – I kept the inhibitor relay and didn’t wire in the clutch position switch on the clutch pedal. To make it start correctly and not to get a CEL, you must splice the neutral position sensor wires into the inhibitor harness connector. The neutral sensor has two wires. One is ground and one is the signal wire that supplies ground only when the car is in neutral. The ground source is black, the signal wire is green/orange. I would recommend double checking those colors for your year/model. Hint-if your neutral sensor is damaged, or it’s wired wrong, the car won’t start. If this happens, you can jump the neutral sensor input wire that goes to the inhibitor relay and computer directly to a ground source and bypass that sensor. A CEL will come on within a couple days though. If you don’t bypass the neutral sensor, you will only be able to start the car in neutral. Another option would be to wire in the clutch position switch and splice it into the neutral sensor input wire right before it goes to the inhibitor relay. This would allow you to start the car in neutral or with the clutch depressed in any gear and not throw a CEL.

Reverse lights – You have to splice the reverse sensor wires into the inhibitor harness connector. There are two wires. One is ground and the other supplies ground only when the car is in reverse. The ground is yellow and the signal wire is green/white. Like above, I recommend you doublecheck those wire colors.

Flywheel bolts – Some manual flywheels can re-use the auto flywheel bolts. If the manual flywheel looks just like your auto one, just with the friction surface attached, you can reuse the auto bolts. If it is different, you will need new bolts. Thats the best way I can describe it, because I have not seen the different kind.

Mounts – You will need the front mount, mount bracket and bolts, the rear mount bracket, the tranny mount, bracket, and bolts. They all bolt up the same, so there's no issue with that. Just take off the auto ones, and put the manuals ones back

Tranny – 91-94 transmissions have a somewhat common problem of 5th gear popping out when they get older. 91-97 trannies have a limited slip differential, whereas 98-up ones don't. Any year sr20 tranny will work though. Make sure it has the yoke, correct speedo sensor, crank position sensor, neutral sensor, reverse sensor. The yoke is what attaches to the shift control rod. The FSM has a diagram with a drawing of it. Early B13’s have a mechanical speedo sensor with a cable. Later B13’s and B14’s have an electric speedo sensor. Install new axle seals while it’s out. If you want you can install a new control rod seal and boot.

Clutch alignment - The auto tranny has a torque converter bearing in the end of the crank which will not allow you to install the pilot bushing. You can leave the TC bearing in and not install the pilot bushing, but it will be hard to align the clutch. The clutch alignment tool will be loose and not line up the clutch perfectly. You can do it like this but you will have to “eyeball” the clutch. Look at the valleys in the clutch center spline. If you can see the edge of the TC bearing, then it’s not lined up. When it is lined up perfectly, you will not be able to see any metal directly beyond the clutch spline.

Axles – both axles must be changed. There’s nothing special about changing them from auto to manual. The carrier bracket is not different, so you don’t have to work about that.

Shift linkage – Install the shift linkage before you put back on the crossmember and passenger axle. It’s pretty easy to see how to install the linkage. Part of it bolts to the rear mount bracket, though, so that has to be changed first.

Clutch cable – Put the cable in place but don’t attach it to the tranny yet. First attach it to the pedal. Unless you have huge Hulk© hands you can just reach up and hook the cable onto the pedal. Just look at it before you reach up there and it’ll be easy. After it’s attached to the pedal, hook it to the clutch lever on the tranny. Then adjust it so that it engages the clutch in the middle of the pedal stroke (when your done with the swap you can adjust it to your liking.)

ECU – You will need to swap the ECU to avoid getting a CEL. You will also need to detach the wiring harness from the auto computer which is located down by your feet on the driver side behind a plastic panel. If you leave it connected, the O/D light will flash every time you start the car.

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